How To Hang Your Hammock: The Only Guide You’ll Ever Need

Home/Hammock 101, Tips and Tricks/How To Hang Your Hammock: The Only Guide You’ll Ever Need

Not a day goes by where we don’t get asked a question from a customer who’s curious about how to best setup their hammock.   Whether it’s setting it up on a balcony, in a bedroom, between two Jeeps, or just in the backyard – the situations are always different but the questions are often the same:

How far apart should the attachment points be? How high do they need to be to make sure the hammock isn’t touching the ground? Is __ feet apart too short/long to hang the hammock?

If you’ve read our post on The Hammock Angle (part of our Sleeping In A Hammock Guide) you know that you should be hanging your non-spreader bar hammock with a nice loose curve so you can lie at an angle across it and get flat.

ridgeline

[NOTE: If your hammock has a metal or wooden spreader bar at each end then this guide won’t apply to your hammock – to find out why you should probably switch to a new hammock, check out our post on How You’ve Been Hammock Brainwashed.]

When your hammock is setup, the amount of curve (also referred to as sag) is going to be determined by the distance between the ends of your hammock.  That distance can easily be measured by measuring across the empty space between each end of your hammock.   This distance is commonly called the Hammock Ridgeline Length. You’re probably already thinking, “Wow, there’s a lot more to hanging a hammock than I realized!”. Well, yes and no.  Hanging your Trek Light Hammock between two points can and should be as simple as eyeballing it once you’re used to it (and you can always make easy adjustments with our Go Anywhere Rope Kit).  A tape measure definitely isn’t part of our backpacking kit!  But, simply knowing the factors involved can be extremely helpful when it comes to understanding how it all comes together. And, if you’re looking to hang a hammock in a more permanent way (such as installing eyebolts in your wall or posts in your backyard) doing it ‘by the book’ with measurements is definitely the way to go to make sure the hammock hangs exactly the way you want it in the end. To break it down, when hanging a hammock you’re dealing with a combination of each of these factors to determine the final outcome:

  • Distance between the two objects
  • Height of attachment points (where you put the rope, straps or eye bolts)
  • Hammock Ridgeline Length
  • How high off the ground the hammock sits (think of it as chair height)

hang_angle_forceAnother important safety factor you should take into consideration (especially when attaching to a wall or ceiling) is the amount of force being applied to your anchor points and suspension when you’re lying in the hammock. The amount of force being applied isn’t just dependent on how much weight you’ve got in the hammock as many think.  It’s actually a combination of factors including the weight and the angle of your suspension (the angle between the cord and the tree as shown in the picture to the right).  In a nutshell, the tighter you pull your hammock the greater the forces will be on the suspension and anchor points (another reason to hang loose!).

An approximate 30 degree angle is considered ideal. But don’t worry, you don’t need a protractor in your pack either, the angle will always be correct if you just follow the guidelines below. Exactly how tight or loose to hang the hammock can be a matter of personal preference, but there’s definitely a ‘sweet spot’ that creates the ideal hammock curve. For our Single and Double Hammocks that ridgeline length is around 9’ (108 inches) to get an ideal hammock curve. On our Compact Hammock, which is a foot shorter, it’s closer to 8’ (96 inches).

So, how do you take all of these variable measurements and figure out how to hang your hammock? Lucky for all of us hammock hangers, there’s a hero in the hammock community by the name of Derek Hansen and he created The Hammock Hang Calculator. Derek is a hammock enthusiast, author and talented illustrator who has broken down the physics of hanging a hammock and designed an easy to use and understand calculator.

Using The Hammock Hang Calculator

All you need to do is plug in a few of your known (or desired) factors and the calculator will take care of the rest. It even opens with several default options preset that work perfectly with your Trek Light Hammock – the Ridgeline Length is already set to 108 inches and the Sit Height is set to 18 inches (average chair height for most). If the Ridgeline Length and Sit Height is what you want, all you need to do is plug in the distance between your points – and your weight if you’re concerned (or curious) about the amount of force being applied – and you’re ready to go! The Hammock Hang Calculator will show you how high to set your suspension points (rope, straps, eyebolt, etc.) to get the perfect hang every time. Many thanks to Derek for putting together such an amazing tool for hammock lovers.  Keep in mind that all of these numbers can be approximated and hanging your hammock doesn’t need to be an exact science, it’s all about what feels comfortable to you.   As it says in the disclaimer on the page, please keep in mind that the calculator is designed for ‘estimating and entertainment purposes only’ and the same goes for the contents of this guide.  You should always get a professional opinion when hanging your hammock indoors, make sure any object you’re hanging from is strong enough to support your weight and double check all equipment. Neither Derek nor Trek Light Gear can be held liable for damage or injury that results from hanging your hammock incorrectly, from an insecure object or in an unsafe manner.

The Ultimate Hang!

You’ll be hearing more from us on the blog about Derek Hansen soon as Derek recently just published an incredible book on hammock camping called The Ultimate Hang: An Illustrated Guide To Hammock Camping. We just added it to our store so you can buy it immediately and I highly recommend it for anyone looking to learn more about the world of hammock camping.   Derek uses over 200 illustrations and a wealth of knowledge to explain everything you need to know about topics such as staying dry, keeping warm, and, of course, setting up your hammock properly. I hope this guide, along with the Hammock Hang Calculator, has been incredibly helpful in helping you determine how to hang your Trek Light Hammock. If you’ve got any questions about hanging your hammock or feel we missed anything just post your question in the comments below! (P.S.  You can also download a mobile version of the Hammock Hang Calculator for your iPhone for 99 cents in the Apple store!)

2017-01-09T13:53:05+00:00 By |

About the Author:

Over a decade ago I started a small business with the goal of making the world a better place one hammock at a time. Thanks for reading and being part of this incredible community - never stop paying it forward.
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  • Walt

    Wonderful info. I’m going to build a wood stand for my non spreader bar hammock. Using this, I will build my stand for a perfect nights sleep.

  • Erich Spaker

    Great info
    Hammocks are great and can be made very cheaply

    I have made one out of only an old sheet and paracord (3$ at Home Depot) tied to two trees

  • chuck

    my hammock is 80″ long (fabric from end to end) and there are bars at each end and then rope from each bar to the respective rings, and that is a total of 132″. so when i use the hammock hang calculator do i use length of hammock as 80″ or 132″?

  • Hi Chuck – The Hammock Hang Calculator (and most of the information in this article) is focused on non-spreader bar hammock designs at the moment. My expertise is focused on non-spreader bar hammock designs – to learn more about why I highly recommend checking out this post on the subject: http://www.treklightgear.com/treklife/hammock-brainwashed/

    Wish I could be of more help, if you have any questions about switching to a gathered-end style hammock just let me know how I can help!

  • Ian Sahlberg

    I want to install a post that can hold two hammocks about 30 degrees separation from each other. How do I calculate how deep and what size post to use etc?

  • Jake Bartlett

    I live in the top floor of a building and I want to hang inside – my ceilings are slanted on the sides of the room (in line with the roof) – is it safe to hang from the slanted part? Or should I hang from the flat ceiling instead?

  • Hi Jake – Unfortunately every home is built a bit differently so it’s impossible for us to give firm advice from a distance on any home installations. Some ceiling beams are load-bearing and some aren’t so it’s important to have someone look at it that can look at your home build and understands the forces involved.

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  • Brandon Green

    Nice guide! I was just thinking for those that don’t want to mess with actually measuring things out with a tape measure or something to that effect one may be able to use some other quick rules of thumb. For instance, distance between anchor points could be 4-6 paces or steps apart (roughly 3′ to a pace or step). Hang point could be anywhere from head high to as high as one can reach depending on how low or high one wants to be off the ground. And suspension length could be the length of one’s arm from tips of outstretched fingers to shoulder. Not a perfect guide of course, but those quick rules of thumb should also get most folks in the right general range for the, “perfect hang,” so to speak. Cheers!

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  • Oleg Boch

    Do I have to use a a cord or would it be OK to just plug the S-hooks that came with the hammock to a mounting point in the wall? What is the difference between the two ways?

    I am going to install an angle iron secured into the wall with anchors and I made sure that the weight this structure will support is WAY above what the load should be (it’s well over 1000 lbs) and I have a hole drilled on the bottom part that I was going to put the S-hook in. Then I read this article and used the Hang Calculator. I have the Trek double hammock so the inputs I used are the following:
    Distance between hang points: 9 ft.
    Ridgeline length: 108 in.
    Preferred Sit Height: 18 in.
    Weight in Hammock: 180 lbs (but since I have a double this could be doubled if I have a cuddle buddy)
    Hang Angle: 30 degrees

    I started with inputting 10 ft. as Distance between hang points and the calculator gave me suspension length of 6.9 in., then I changed the distance to 9 ft. and the suspension length became 0. Does that mean that if I want to hang it with just using the S-hooks that are built into my hammock and hanging them directly off my anchor point that these are the numbers I would use? Thank you.

  • Hi Oleg – You’re exactly right. If you want to hang without any suspension and just hook in then you want to be in that 9′ (108 inches) sweet spot. Let us know how it goes and don’t hesitate to snap some photos and share them with us!

  • Shona Strohmayer

    I have a lofted bed, would it be wise to put a hammock underneath it? It’s 80 inches long and leaves about 55 inches underneath.

  • Definitely Shona! Check out this post for a good example of a loft bed hammock setup: http://www.treklightgear.com/treklife/loft-bed-hammock/

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  • havrin

    Sorry if this is obvious to everyone else, but I’m about to join the ranks of hammock users for the first time and I have a question. The hang calculator makes sense to me except for one thing. It lists the suspension length for the foot of the hammock, but doesn’t designate that length for the head of it. Is it the same length as the one for the foot? If I’m missing something, I apologize but I thought I’d ask anyway.

  • Yes – the suspension length is assumed to be the same for both sides so the hammock hangs evenly and centered between the two end points. If you have any other questions I can help with just let me know!

  • havrin

    Thanks very much for the quick reply on a thread that hasn’t had activity in months. I just got my trek light double hammock delivered by ups today and I’m going to tackle putting it up in my bedroom this evening.

  • Cindy

    Your calculator on this website had no submit button. So, I bought the iPhone app. When I entered the data nothing happened when I hit DONE. Ver frustrating that your technology doesn’t work even if I pay for it. :/

  • Cindy

    Please send me the $1.99 back for the App that doesn’t work!

  • Hi Cindy – There’s no submit button needed on the calculator, if you look below the form fields it says “Click TAB to auto-refresh the form.” All you have to do it type in your numbers and TAB out of the field and the calculator automatically updates.

    It’s definitely working!

  • Please see my note above which should help you figure out how to use the online calculator – it’s definitely working! If you still have an issue, please remember that the app and the calculator aren’t made by us, we’re just sharing the info here on this page.

  • Matt Boys

    I’m considering hanging a hammock from the ceiling of my front porch. Is it possible to hang from the ceiling? (assuming the proper support above) What distance between the hang points do I need if I’m hanging from ceiling? Ceiling height is roughly 9 feet

  • Hi Matt – You can definitely use ceiling/overhead supports, you’ll just need space the points appropriately. With a 9′ overhead setup you’ll definitely need to spread the points out a bit so the rope can come down at an angle in between the supports. My best suggestion is to change the “Hang Angle” on the calculator to 45 degrees and then play around with the distance to see that “Hang Point” value get up to around 108″ which is the height of your ceiling. I played with the numbers a bit and It looks like you’ll be somewhere in the 14′-15′ range (distance between your two eye bolts in the ceiling).

    Notice also that if you raise the “Sit Height” value a bit you’ll also be able to accomplish a good setup with a less distance between end points, so depending on how much room you have to work with you can always raise the hammock off the ground a bit (and use a small stool if necessary) to make it work for you.

  • I have 2 4×4 post that I am using. I used the hang calculator to get how high to hang. Do I need any additional support so 4×4 post do not bend inward/outword. I estimated the weight at 200 so hammock could hold me and 2 kids. Thank you for your help.

  • Hey Relaxed Mom – A 4×4 post should be sufficiently strong to support the weight of you and the kids in the hammock, but you’ll want to consult with someone local as to how deep you’ll need to sink the posts to make sure they don’t bend, pull or break. The composition of your soil (how soft, sandy, wet, etc) will influence things a lot and you may need to sink the post deeper to compensate.

    Some folks will also use a small amount of cement surrounding a 4×4 bracket to put the post into, which serves two purposes: the cement and bracket provide extra support obviously, but using a bracket also gives you the added benefit of being able to remove the post when you want (for mowing the lawn, playing a game in the yard, etc).

    Good luck and feel free to take some photos and report back with your new backyard hammock setup!

  • Hipparchy S

    If I make my own hammock out of ripstop nylon, and I am 5-7, what is the smallest hang distance I could use? I’m looking to hang inside a small trailer.

    What would u suggest length for hammock/ridgline, suspension type, etc? Thanks!!

  • Hipparchy S – You’re probably looking at a minimum hang distance of 8-9 feet for true comfort, but I’ve definitely seen people hang hammocks in tight spots like your trailer and make it work as long as the hammock is wide enough to give you room to get flat.

    If you’re looking for help on building your own hammock I would head over to HammockForums.net and post your question there – there are a ton of people in the community that can offer great advice when it comes to a DIY build.

  • Hipparchy S

    Thanks! I actually did 🙂 but got “it depends” lol. :). Thanks! I’d like to hang it in the tack room but am worried it’s too small. But if I can sneak by with 8 ft maybe I’ll risk it :).

    I’ve got up to 96 inches but don’t know where the support beams are so didn’t want to start trial and error if even 96 was too small.

    Thanks again! You’ve given me hope!

  • Linda Savino

    I’m 5’5, 125lbs. Can I screw the I lots into 2×4’s or do you recommend 2×6’s? Thank you!

  • Linda Savino

    Oops! *IBOLTS

  • 2×4’s should work fine as long as they’re properly anchored themselves. (Just remember though, I’m only able to offer advice based on experience and every structure, piece of wood, etc. is unique so always consult a local expert to be safe!)

  • Linda Savino

    Thank you, Seth! Will do! Linda 😉

  • pmousebrown

    Have two young boys, 9 & almost 11, who hate their beds. They’ve taken to sleeping on the floor. I am thinking of replacing their bunk beds with two hammocks. Anchoring them to the ceiling next to the wall at one end and then wherever appropriate in the ceiling for the other anchor point but I would like to be able to unhook the second anchor point and hang it against the wall when not in use. What do you think of this idea? Would the standard mounting gear work in this situation? The oldest boy is 5′ tall and weighs ~95#, the younger one is 50″ tall and maybe 50# soaking wet. Which hammock do you recommend for a long term solution. The older boy is going to be tall, over 6′, the younger boy not so much, maybe 5’8″. How far apart should the hammocks be so that they can sleep at the recommended angle?

  • Sounds like a great setup, I see no issues.

    In just about every case I’ll recommend the Double when it comes to full time sleep. There really isn’t ever a case where the Double could be ‘too big’ unless you’re trying to make some sacrifices for ultralight backpacking. The youngest could likely still flatten out and a get a good night’s sleep in a smaller model but if you’re looking for something they can grow into I’d stick with the Double for both.

    Ideal end to end distance on the Double (end to end of the hammock, not necessarily distance between connection points) is always in that 9′ sweet spot, it doesn’t have to be exact. Good luck and don’t hesitate to post some pictures of your setup when you get it started!

  • pmousebrown

    Hmm I don’t think I was clear, the boys share a room so both hammocks would be in the same room – how far apart from each other do the hammocks need to be?

  • pmousebrown

    Two boys with bunk beds always sleeping on the floor because they didn’t like their beds. Got two hammocks, ordered Thursday, arrived & installed Saturday. Have them set up so that they can be unhooked from one wall when not in use to give the boys more room! Here is a photo with one hammock up & one down. Already tried them out. Super comfortable! Thanks Seth!

  • lisa

    Curious what distance you think is too much. For instance….the space between my two trees where I want to hang my hammock is 26 feet. Is that too much?

  • Wow- beautiful setup! Thanks for sharing!

  • Hi Lisa – There’s no reason why you wouldn’t be able to work with the 26ft distance provided your trees are tall enough and strong enough. If you plug 26ft into the Hammock Hang Calculator you’ll see that you’ll need to hang your straps at a height of about 9ft to get it to work. So you’ll need a step stool or a ladder and some pretty long straps (you can always combine our rope kits together to extend them) but you should be able to pull it off.

    Before you do that though, have you considered sinking a post in between the trees? With that distance you could sink a 4×4 post in the middle of the two trees and have an easy way to hang two hammocks in that space instead of one!

  • lisa

    Wow….awesome idea Seth. With 4 kids….that will cut down on the fighting. Thanks for the suggestion. I’m gonna do that!

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  • Jason Johnson

    So I had looked at the hang calculator and then found your site. Very informative. The one thing that troubles me is the cord tension calculation. In the default example, assuming perfect angle and distances, wouldn’t the cord tension be 200/2 on EACH line? Is the cord tension in this calculator just giving the total cord tension? This is an important distinction as most tree straps are limited to 200lbs EACH or 400lbs TOTAL and I intend to use a double on occasion for my son or gf and I to share.

  • Hi Jason – As I understand it, the tension on the cord is derived from the sum of both the downward force (ie. your weight – in the calculator default = 200lbs) and the horizontal shear force applied (173lbs in the example). So it does result in a combined 200lbs of tension on EACH strap even though there’s only 200lbs in the hammock.

    I’m not sure what straps you’re referring to, but I honestly wouldn’t use a strap that only has a working load of 200lbs – you ideally want straps that are capable of supporting 400lbs or more individually to be on the safe side.

  • Jason Johnson

    http://www.amazon.com/Eagles-Nest-Outfitters-Polyester-Hammock/dp/B008OXZNDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428438195&sr=8-1&keywords=eno+strap

    “Each strap in the Atlas hammock suspension system can support 200 lbs, for a combined weight capacity of 400 lbs”

    Sorry, forgot to reply to your reply.

  • Well, I honestly can’t speak to the strength of those straps, but my guess is that the Amazon page *may* describe them incorrectly. If you look at the Atlas Strap page on ENO’s site it doesn’t mention anything about the individual strap strength being only 200lbs. You may want to reach out to ENO or Derek Hansen (the creator of the calculator) for a better explanation of the forces involved to make sure you’re getting straps that are sufficient.

  • Lesia Joy

    Hi, thank you for the awesome hammock calculator.. I have 2 poles supporting my sail shade over the porch.. the distance between them is about 6m (19.6ft).. Is it two far..? I am thinking of using mexican style hammock, woven with wooden frame parts.. and metal chains, pad eyes, drilled through the pole and S hooks for support.. Is it doable? You calculator says yes.. but is my suspension strong enough?

  • Hi Lesia – I’m sure you can find a way to make it work, but keep in mind that the hang calculator is made primarily with a gathered end hammock in mind rather than the wooden spreader bar hammock you have. So factors like your ‘hammock sag’, ridgeline, etc. are all very different when dealing with a spreader bar style hammock like you describe. If you’ve got the hammock already you can always hold it out in the space and try to get a feel for whether it will work or not. If you haven’t purchased the hammock yet, I’d definitely suggest checking out Trek Light Gear’s Double Hammock – it’s more durable and comfortable than many woven wooden frame hammocks and should definitely work in the space you’ve got!

  • Dom44519

    Hello, I have recently bought a hammock for me to not only relax in my bedroom with, but also as an alternative to my bed for when I feel I am extra tired, hot/cold, etc… but, when hanging the eye bolts in my room I didn’t really think too much if the eye bolts should be the same height, or different heights. I placed one eye bolt, and then the one on the opposite side about 3-5 inches above it. Every night I try to sleep in it, either one side or the other feels uncomfortable in the sense that the opposing side is pushing against my side. Does this happen if they are the same height? Or is it me just laying in a bad position? If you could get back to me, that would be great.

  • Whenever possible you definitely want the ends of your hammock to be level with each other – if one end is higher than the other it could definitely cause the issue you’re experiencing. Depending on how much space you have you may be able to fix it just by attaching a short length of cord to the eye bolt that’s hung higher to get that end to hang at the same height as the other.

  • Torsten Pearson

    should I hang one side higher than the other? or is level the best for comfort?

  • Hi Torsten –

    Level is the way to go. Because the hammock hangs with a curve you can always use that natural curve of the hammock to elevate one end of your body if you don’t want to be flat.

  • Clickum

    I’m trying to hang a hammock in my upstairs loft; I can only hang my anchors up to 10 ft apart. How can I compensate for this in order to hang your 9 ft hammock?

  • That’s exactly what our Go Anywhere Rope is for – you can use it as an adjustable extension from your anchor points to hang the hammock exactly how you need it. Keep in mind that our 10′ hammock (Double & Single) is typically hung about 9′ from end to end to give it the proper amount of sag. The 9′ hammock (Compact) you’re referring to is typically hung with about 8′ from end to end. So if you’ve got 10′ of space to work with I would definitely give the Double Hammock a try for the best comfort!

  • Clickum

    Thanks!

  • Clickum

    The issue I am having is that the anchor points are in the ceiling, ten feet apart. As the ropes come down, they naturally let the hammock hang.

    My question was more asking for guidance on how high the connection to the ropes need to be, since the dynamic is slightly different than this calculator.

  • Scott

    I have a question regarding ridgeline length as a percentage of hammock length. Most resources I’ve read place ridgeline length at 83-85% of hammock length. I have the Trek Light Double, which measures 114-115″, depending on how tight you can stretch it. 85% of 115″ puts me at a ridgeline length of about 98″, which is a full 10″ shorter than your recommended length of 108″. Do I ignore the 85% rule and go with the 108″ line that you suggest?

  • Hi Scott -At the end of the day all of these numbers are secondary to personal preference. When finding a ridgeline length that works for you my best advice is always to experiment, the rough guidelines (108″, 85%, etc.) are great ranges to work from but I’ve spoken with thousands of people over the years about how they setup their hammock (weird, I know) and at the end of the day it’s obvious that there’s no one perfect answer for everyone. For me, I usually go 108″ from hook-to-hook (not end to end of the fabric), which actually lines up pretty perfectly with the 85% rule around 98″ if you just measure end to end of the fabric.

  • Scott

    Seth,
    Thanks for the clarification. I had read somewhere that the ridgeline was measured from end to end where the hammock fabric starts and ends, so that was the number I was using. The 108″ does compute perfectly when going hook to hook. I love my Trek Light double (in camo!). Have it hanging in the house right now. My only problem is getting my daughter to let me have a turn in it.

  • Randy H.

    I have been sleeping poorly for some years. My back is not as good as it once was and I have a fairly good mattress. I’ve tried several different pillows: memory foam, contoured, etc. but still don’t get great rest, so I started thinking about a hammock. I didn’t know if people actually used them for normal everyday sleeping and I didn’t want to be a member of the weirdo club, so I searched. I was encouraged to find that many people do recommend it and even say it’s good for the back.

    So I plunged into buying one after doing some research on models, especially since they are so much less expensive than mattresses. I had to get one with a stand so I did some research and decided on a “Vivere Double Hammock with Space Saving Steel Stand”. It is 100% cotton and the hammock bed is 63 x 94-Inch, with a total length of 130-Inches. I figured I’d better go for a double since I’m 6’6″.

    I tried it the first night and made it through about 4 hours before I crawled out and back onto my bed. I was restless much of the night and my back had started feeling tight. I often sleep on my stomach so that was definitely out with the hammock. I sometime sleep on my back or sides as well and figured I turned because the bed wasn’t comfortable. I figured I could make it in the hammock without needing to be on my stomach. That first night, I had tried putting in a blanket first, thinking it would soften the material and I could cover with it. I found this very difficult to do because of the curling and wondered if that had contributed to the poor rest.

    I tried it the second night but just laid on the hammock fabric and draped the blanket over the hammock, much easier to achieve. I also use a pillow this time. I made it a little over three hours before going back to my bed. Again, my back was not feeling good. I did notice then that the pressure from my mattress seemed very intense for awhile.

    So I started wondering about the adjustments on the hammock. I figured the tautness of the hammock must play a big part in this. I wasn’t sure if both ends were supposed to be the same height or one should be lower. This Vivere frame has a wide U-shaped bar on the top of the uprights were the hammock ropes rest on and a hook on the pipe to secure the loop. This is adjustable with six holes that you change where the hook goes. I think I had it on the third hole down previously. Then I read you don’t want the hammock strung too tightly, so I lowered it to the second holes. The very top hole is useless because you drag the floor (and the bar) if you get in (I’m about 220). Using the second holes places me about 3 inches from the frame bar beneath me when I’m lying down so I can’t make it any less taut than this.

    If you, oh guru of the hammock, can give me any advice on this, that would be great. Am I just too tall for this or am I doing something else wrong? I do lay at an angle in the hammock.

  • Scott Young

    Hi all. Hammock newbie. Have a stand which I would like to use but not sure how to calculate for a hammock. Between hooks 114″. Height of hooks 41″. Any chance of getting something to fit this and let my 6′ 215 lb. body fit in? Would appreciate any help. Thanks

  • Hi Scott – I haven’t tried every hammock stand out there so it’s difficult to give you and accurate answer – the calculator can be difficult to translate to a hammock stand since every one is designed a bit differently. My concern with the stand you referenced would be the height of the hooks. The height of the hammock stand we currently sell is 54″ and the length is 124″ at its shortest. I’d be worried that you’d sink too low in the stand you’ve got so you’d be on the ground. Some hammock stands aren’t as tall because they’re designed with spreader bar hammocks in mind – those hammocks are meant to be pulled tight with little sag, unlike a hammock like ours (and what the hang calculator is geared towards). I wish I could give you a better answer, if you order one of our hammocks off of Amazon you can always take advantage of their free shipping and easy returns to give it a try!

  • Scott Young

    Thanks Seth. The stand was a gift and in reading your blogs I was trying to go away from the spreader bar. But it sounds like my stand specs won’t work with your style. I do appreciate the quick follow up!

  • Scott David Bentz

    The calculator is amazing! Now I know since my straps are only 54″ long, not including the diameter of the tree, most optimal hang spaces is right around 10-12ft for me (~double my arm span) which is pretty easy to measure. I also should hang my straps at about 5′ or my shoulder height. I’ve been hanging them much higher (overhead) which reduces my ridgeline length and increases my suspension length. You should only set your hang point higher to reduce cord tension which might be a factor when trying to sleep two in the same hammock.

  • Mike

    What’s the minimum distance needed between hooks for a single

  • Typically you’ll want ~8.5ft as a minimum (either for our Single or Double). You can definitely use the hammock comfortably with less span but I’ve found that to be a pretty ideal minimum if you plan on spending a good amount of time in the hammock, using it for sleeping, etc.

  • Mike

    Thank you Seth, I am wondering about the height of the tie in. I have two posts 10′ apart built under an ivy covered gazebo type thing. The hooks are 48″ high. I built it to fit a single spreader bar hammock a long time ago. Will it sag to the deck?

  • That should work. If you plug those numbers into the calculator it recommends a height of ~52in. to get the hammock to hang at a ‘seat height’ of 18″, which is ideal for most people. Working backwards you wind up with a seat height of 13-14 inches when your anchor points are at 48″ high. That’s a bit lower than your average chair but it should still keep you high enough off the ground (provided your suspension isn’t stretching further when you get in).

  • Mike

    Wow, thanks for the quick answer. Perfect enough. Even my little grandkids will be able to get in and out

  • Ben

    Any idea where I can find out how much force the studs in my wall can handle? We’re renting- I can patch a bolt hole, but if the wall comes tumbling down, we’re pretty well screwed. 😛

  • Hi Ben – Unfortunately this is the main reason that any indoor hammock hanging involves the need to say ‘do your homework’ and ‘at your own risk’. While there’s certainly codes and regulations that builders are supposed to follow, the reality is that it’s not always done which means that there’s no universal answer – every home, including the size of the wall studs, the way they’re installed, and how well they’re secured, could be very different. When wall studs are being installed the builder isn’t likely thinking about hammocks or any kind of horizontal load pulling on them, they’re just intended for supporting the vertical load up and down.

    When sized, installed and secured properly, wall studs make a great hammock hanging spot. But I’ve seen instances in homes where the wall studs are loosely secured and I’d be very hesitant to hang a hammock on them. Sometimes the only way to be sure is to cut a hole in your dry wall to inspect the stud behind it and reinforce if necessary – something that becomes a bit more of an adventure if you’re renting. 🙂

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