Not a day goes by where we don’t get asked a question from a customer who’s curious about how to best setup their hammock.
Whether it’s setting it up on a balcony, in a bedroom, between two Jeeps, or just in the backyard – the situations are always different but the questions are often the same:
How far apart should the attachment points be?
How high do they need to be to make sure the hammock isn’t touching the ground?
Is __ feet apart too short/long to hang the hammock?
The Short Version: Hang It In Six Steps
If you just want your hammock in the air, here’s the whole thing. The rest of this guide explains the why behind each step.
- Pick two solid anchors. Two healthy, sturdy trees roughly 10 to 15 feet apart is the sweet spot. If a tree looks too young or skinny to lean a ladder against, it’s too young to hang from.
- Wrap your straps at about eye level. Around 5 to 6 feet up works for most distances. Farther apart trees, go a little higher.
- Aim for a 30 degree angle between the strap and the tree. Tighter than that and you’re putting serious force on your anchors (and making the hammock less comfortable, not more).
- Keep a nice loose curve. Your hammock should smile back at you. For our Double Hammocks, that’s a ridgeline of about 9 feet (108 inches) end to end.
- Set your sit height around 18 inches. Chair height. You want to sit down into a hammock, not climb up into one.
- Weight-test before you commit. Press down hard with both hands, then sit gently before you swing your feet up. Thirty seconds of testing beats any amount of confidence.
Picking Your Trees (Or Posts, Or Jeeps)
The hammock is only as trustworthy as what it’s attached to. Healthy, mature trees are the gold standard: solid trunk, no dead overhanging branches (look up!), bark intact. One hammock per tree, and use wide, tree-friendly straps rather than bare rope; straps spread the load and won’t dig into healthy bark. That’s better for the tree and, since the tree is holding you up, better for you.
No trees? Sturdy posts, porch columns, and yes, two vehicles all work with the same rules: solid anchor, 30 degree angle, weight test. If it wobbles when you push it, it doesn’t get to hold your body.
If you’ve read our post on The Hammock Angle (part of our Sleeping In A Hammock Guide) you know that you should be hanging your non-spreader bar hammock with a nice loose curve so you can lie at an angle across it and get flat.
[NOTE: If your hammock has a metal or wooden spreader bar at each end then this guide won't apply to your hammock - to find out why you should probably switch to a new hammock, check out our post on How You've Been Hammock Brainwashed.]
When your hammock is setup, the amount of curve (also referred to as sag) is going to be determined by the distance between the ends of your hammock. That distance can easily be measured by measuring across the empty space between each end of your hammock. This distance is commonly called the Hammock Ridgeline Length.
You’re probably already thinking, “Wow, there’s a lot more to hanging a hammock than I realized!”. Well, yes and no.
Hanging your Trek Light Hammock between two points can and should be as simple as eyeballing it once you’re used to it (and our Pro Hanging Straps make adjustments as easy as clipping into a different loop). A tape measure definitely isn’t part of our backpacking kit!
But, simply knowing the factors involved can be extremely helpful when it comes to understanding how it all comes together. And, if you’re looking to hang a hammock in a more permanent way (such as installing eyebolts in your wall or posts in your backyard) doing it ‘by the book’ with measurements is definitely the way to go to make sure the hammock hangs exactly the way you want it in the end.
To break it down, when hanging a hammock you’re dealing with a combination of each of these factors to determine the final outcome:
- Distance between the two objects
- Height of attachment points (where you put the rope, straps or eye bolts)
- Hammock Ridgeline Length
- How high off the ground the hammock sits (think of it as chair height)
Another important safety factor you should take into consideration (especially when attaching to a wall or ceiling) is the amount of force being applied to your anchor points and suspension when you’re lying in the hammock.
The amount of force being applied isn’t just dependent on how much weight you’ve got in the hammock as many think. It’s actually a combination of factors including the weight and the angle of your suspension (the angle between the cord and the tree as shown in the picture to the right).
In a nutshell, the tighter you pull your hammock the greater the forces will be on the suspension and anchor points (another reason to hang loose!). An approximate 30 degree angle is considered ideal.
But don’t worry, you don’t need a protractor in your pack either, the angle will always be correct if you just follow the guidelines below. Exactly how tight or loose to hang the hammock can be a matter of personal preference, but there’s definitely a ‘sweet spot’ that creates the ideal hammock curve.
For our Double Hammocks, that ridgeline length is around 9’ (108 inches) to get an ideal hammock curve.
Hanging Indoors Or On A Porch
Indoors is where hammock hanging gets serious, because drywall absolutely does not count as an anchor. Eyebolts need to go into structure: wall studs, ceiling joists, or solid beams. The force section above explains why; a person in a hammock can put several hundred pounds of pull on each anchor point depending on the angle.
Our honest advice: for any permanent indoor or porch install, get a professional opinion on your specific wall or ceiling before you drill. Once the anchors are solid, everything else in this guide works exactly the same inside as out.
So, how do you take all of these variable measurements and figure out how to hang your hammock?
Lucky for all of us hammock hangers, there’s a hero in the hammock community by the name of Derek Hansen and he created The Hammock Hang Calculator.
Derek is a hammock enthusiast, author and talented illustrator who has broken down the physics of hanging a hammock and designed an easy to use and understand calculator.
Using The Hammock Hang Calculator
All you need to do is plug in a few of your known (or desired) factors and the calculator will take care of the rest. It even opens with several default options preset that work perfectly with your Trek Light Hammock – the Ridgeline Length is already set to 108 inches and the Sit Height is set to 18 inches (average chair height for most).
If the Ridgeline Length and Sit Height is what you want, all you need to do is plug in the distance between your points - and your weight if you’re concerned (or curious) about the amount of force being applied - and you’re ready to go!
The Hammock Hang Calculator will show you how high to set your suspension points (rope, straps, eyebolt, etc.) to get the perfect hang every time.
Many thanks to Derek for putting together such an amazing tool for hammock lovers. Keep in mind that all of these numbers can be approximated and hanging your hammock doesn’t need to be an exact science, it’s all about what feels comfortable to you.
As it says in the disclaimer on the page, please keep in mind that the calculator is designed for ‘estimating and entertainment purposes only’ and the same goes for the contents of this guide. You should always get a professional opinion when hanging your hammock indoors, make sure any object you’re hanging from is strong enough to support your weight and double check all equipment.
Neither Derek nor Trek Light can be held liable for damage or injury that results from hanging your hammock incorrectly, from an insecure object or in an unsafe manner. For more on safe setup, see our Hammock Safety guide.
The Setup That Does This For You
Every number in this guide gets easier with adjustable suspension. Our Pro Hanging Straps have multiple attachment loops, so instead of measuring and re-tying, you just clip into a different loop until the curve looks right. Our current Double Hammock bundles include them:
The Ultimate Hang!
You’ll be hearing more from us on the blog about Derek Hansen soon as Derek recently just published an incredible book on hammock camping called The Ultimate Hang: An Illustrated Guide To Hammock Camping, and I highly recommend it for anyone looking to learn more about the world of hammock camping.
Derek uses over 200 illustrations and a wealth of knowledge to explain everything you need to know about topics such as staying dry, keeping warm, and, of course, setting up your hammock properly.
I hope this guide, along with the Hammock Hang Calculator, has been incredibly helpful in helping you determine how to hang your Trek Light Hammock.
Hammock Hanging FAQ
How far apart should trees be to hang a hammock?
Roughly 10 to 15 feet for most hammocks. Closer, and you’ll hang your straps lower; farther, higher. Adjustable straps cover the whole range without any math.
How high should hammock straps be?
Around 5 to 6 feet up the tree for typical distances, which lands your hammock at a comfortable 18 inch sit height with a proper curve.
Should a hammock be tight or loose?
Loose. A tight hammock cocoons you, stresses your anchors, and is less comfortable. Aim for a relaxed curve and about a 30 degree angle between strap and tree.
Can you hang a hammock indoors?
Yes, with anchors in real structure (studs, joists, beams), never bare drywall. For permanent installs, get a professional opinion on your wall or ceiling first.
Will hanging a hammock hurt the tree?
Not if you use wide, tree-friendly straps on a healthy, mature tree. Straps spread the load instead of cutting in the way rope can. One hammock per tree.
If you’ve got any questions about hanging your hammock or feel we missed anything just post your question in the comments below!
